Beginners' Hints and Tips

When using a fine thread, try knotting one end in the eye of your needle. This will keep the thread from slipping and eliminate rough patches caused by friction.
For precision blackwork, mount your fabric on a backing cloth (e.g. thin cotton batiste, shirting, lawn or fine calico), and stitch through both thicknesses. You will then be able to bring your thread up and down exactly where you want it and know that it will stay there.
Aim to achieve a stitched line which looks as much as possible like a pen-drawn line. To do so, use a small, sharp needle and be prepared to split the thread you are working with if necessary. To avoid a bulge, split the thread away from the centre. Usually, catching up to a third of the width of the thread with your needle works well.

Starting

Cut a longer thread than you would normally use if you intend to try out the following ideas.
When using fine threads, tie a slip knot in the eye of the needle. This will minimise wear on the thread, fraying, and secure it in place so that you don't have to rethread your needle unnecessarily.
Tie a slip knot at the end of the thread and use this as an 'away knot', bringing your needle down away from your starting point, at a distance which will leave a long end up to 3 times as long as your needle, positioning this in the opposite direction to your intended direction of travel so that you will not work over the end of the thread as you stitch, then bring your needle up at your chosen starting point.

Slip Knot in the Eye of the Needle

The Away Slip Knot

Finishing

Work this tidily into the back of your work when you finish, using one of the techniques described below.
On the back of your work, following the line your stitching has taken, take your thread through the middle of the fabric threads which lie on top of (rather than go underneath) the ones at right angles to them at a given intersection below your work.
On the back of your work, use a Running Stitch to stitch the end of your thread along and through the thread you have used, or a neighbouring thick outline thread if available. Commonly used stitches

Running Stitch - use this for pattern darning, or in 'dashed line' type filling patterns.

Double Running Stitch (also known as Holbein Stitch, or Spanish Stitch) - use this for continuous line work, and reversible blackwork.

Running Back Stitch - use this to avoid shadowing when going round corners, or for ease of working when following a complex pattern.

Other straight line stitches, such as Back Stitch, can also be used in Blackwork, and there is nothing to stop you switching between different kinds of stitches as you stitch. Aim to make your work as precise, neat and even as possible on the front. Not all blackwork is reversible - and if you use a backing fabric on a non-reversible piece, you can get a way with running a thin thread along the back of your work, as it is unlikely that it will show through the double thickness of fabric once the piece is mounted.

Simple Embellishment

Beads

Use 2 strands of thread in the needle and sew on the beads using a Cross Stitch as shown.

Crystal Flowers

Use 1 strand of thread in the needle. Follow the numbered sequence as shown.

Metal Thread Stitches

See my 2-part article on Plaited Braid Stitch and its variations in the Autumn and Winter 2003 Issues of Fine Lines (Vol 8, Nos 2,3), published by The Historic Needlework Guild. Designs and books covering alternative stitches and their variations follow on from this.

Checklist

The type and quality of the materials you use, fabric and stitch tension, direction of travel from stitch to stitch, the point at which you decide to split a thread, and the point at which you decide to bring your needle up or down through your fabric(s), amongst other things, will all contribute to the final look of your piece.

Further information on Blackwork technique can be found in various books available from Leon Conrad Designs. See my book page for further details.

Version 2.1 - August 2003

Photocopying, digital or electronic reproduction of this document is prohibited without permission in writing from the Copyright holder. Copyright (c) Leon Conrad - October 2000. All rights reserved.
Leon Conrad has asserted his moral rights to be identified as the author of this text and designer of the stitch diagrams included in it in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988.

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